Ambrym Island in Vanuatu
Called the 'Land Before Time' - Ambrym is one of the few places on Earth where you can see the seething active lava lakes in the heart of twin volcanoes, for Ambrym Island is the remains of a huge volcano plunging into the surrounding Pacific Ocean.
Arctic core samples verify that a thousand years ago it erupted with such force, thirty cubic kilometres of earth ejected into the atmosphere, altering the planet's climate for the next three years. The now collapsed caldera in the island's centre is twelve kilometres across! On the edge of the caldera, two active cones, now named Mount Benbow and Mount Maroum, sit side by side.
Ambrym remains volcanically active, the last major eruption in 1913 killed hundreds and opened a fracture line across the island from East to West in a staggering series of blown out craters.
Today, Benbow and Maroum volcanoes still rumble away and smaller vents and fractures ooze steam and lava. Standing on the rim of Maroum, the very core of the lava lake can be seen swirling and spitting in endless fury. By aircraft, on a clear day, it is possible to see both Benbow and Maroum's lava lakes.
The roughly triangle shaped island has airstrips on the West coast at Lamen Bay and at Endou, on the East coast. Vanair offer regularly scheduled services to both airstrips. There are few roads along the coast and many are unserviceable during the wet season.
IT is NOT possible to fly into Ambrym and simply hike up the mountains and camp where you like. You must pay entry fees for all land in Vanuatu is 'owned' by tradition. A local guide is necessary at all times for the constantly changing conditions can make it a dangerous place for the unwary. At this time, there are only three places offering accommodation, tours and treks on the island.
Solomon Douglas Bungalows can be reached by a 3 hour launch from Craig Cove to Ranon in the North. It is a spectacular journey along a coastline of compressed fracture lines and mud flows, jungle covered craters and inactive lava flows. Black sand beaches are extremely hot, not so much because of the sun, but the boiling weather bubbling up from beneath. Both Benbow and Maroum volcanoes can be seen in the background
Milee Sea Bungalows on the West coast are by road south of Craig Cove. The road takes a fascinating journey through primitive villages, alternating between raw jungle, coconut plantations and traversing lava flows. Benbow Volcano can be seen in the background.
From both Milee and Solomon Douglass, walking tours can be prearranged to the Ash Plain within the collapsed caldera at the top of the island. Ash plain however is a misnomer, for the the walk to the 'plain' is beyond description, a primeval world of ancient tree ferns and eerie mist shrouded jungle.
The acid rain prevents vegetation growing in many areas and the nuclei of the constantly erupting vents ensures frequent, often heavy rainfall. When you arrive at the 'plain', it is to find a jagged black moonscape of land forms torn apart and reformed after every erosive rainstorm.
Solomon Douglass have tents and it is possible to spend one or more nights on the Ash Plain, even on the rim of Maroum, with the lava lake bubbling and hissing all night.
It is also possible to arrange a circular tour that includes the launch trip northeast from Craig Cove to Ranon, spend time here to visit the Custom villages of Ranvetlan to see a demonstration of the famous ROM dance, or perhaps a half day walk into the foothills to see Fanla, then trek to Maroum Volcano. You can cross the Ash Plain in a westerly direction, past Benbow and down the western coast to Milee Bungalows. You need to allow a minimum of one week for such a journey - and you should be reasonably fit and prepared to endure a bit of discomfort, although it is not unsuitable for active older children accustomed to walking and camping.
For those who undertake such a journey, even a day trip from Milee or overnight tour from Ranon to the volcanoes and back, it is without question the experience of a lifetime.
You will leave Ambrym having stepped back not a thousand, but millions of years in time, to a world long since forgotten by civilised man. It will leave you forever changed in the way you see the world.
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